Cultural Appropriation - The Antonym of Multiculturalism and Diversity?

The Fine Line Between Appropriation and Appreciation

“You can’t outdo the doer. You can't outshine the shiner.” A quote from the song “Rainbow Cadillac” by upcoming female black rapper Yung Baby Tate. This audio accompanied a video I stumbled across when I scrolled through my Instagram feed the other day. In that video, someone compared white girls wearing braids to black girls wearing braids, heavily implying that white women should not wear their hair like that. But why do so many people think so? Even though I also prefer black hairstyles on black women, I don’t believe white women are not allowed to wear them. As the social media drama enthusiast that I am, I took a look at the comment section which often functions as a battlefield for hot debates. Just as in this case. Many people disagree, because they believe that women should be able to wear what they want without being judged. But even more people approve of the creator's statement. Their main reason: White women should not be wearing black hairstyles, because by doing so they are immediately appropriating black culture...right?

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I first heard of the term Cultural Appropriation a couple of years ago. Back then I never really understood the meaning behind it. Even as a black person myself, I did not understand the controversy of white people wearing braids or dreads. I mean, it’s just hair, why don’t we let people dress and wear their hair the way they want to? If culture is fluid, why do we want to claim something as mundane as a hairstyle? And why are we stifling cultures in such regressive boundaries? Isn't that the complete opposite of diversity and obstructs the goal of a multicultural society?

To find answers to these questions, we first need to define the term Cultural Appropriation. The Oxford English Dictionary explains it as “the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the practices, customs, or aesthetics of one social or ethnic group by members of another (typically dominant) community or society.” The term was first used in the context of the Critical-Whiteness-Movement in the 1960s which refers to the privileges that white people, often unconsciously, experience in everyday life. The term cultural appropriation is used here to reflect on power and discrimination relationships and comprises how traditional objects of different ethnic cultures are instrumentalized as a substrate for commercialization processes. This can cause the true meaning and origin of the cultures being falsified or even getting lost.

According to this definition, we can witness cultures being appropriated a lot in everyday life and especially in mainstream media. Be it in the music industry, in film or in fashion. A lot of famous people have been accused of it. Ahead of everyone, our very beloved Kardashian-Jenner Clan. One of the countless cases was when two years ago Kim Kardashian posted a snapchat video of herself showing off her new “Bo Derek Braids''. Although actress Bo Derek attracted the western world's attention by wearing this hairstyle in the 1979 film “10”, she was definitely not the only woman to wear these braids, let alone invent them.

Kim Kardashian (left) and Bo Derek (right)

Fulani Braids, which is the correct name for this hairstyle, find their origin somewhere else. The Fula people are an ethnic group in the Sahel and West Africa, amongst others located in Mali, Senegal or Guinea. The originally nomadic tribe primarily contains of muslim people. But the inspiration for Fulani Braids can also be found on the opposite side of the continent, in East Africa. Several tribes in Ethiopia and Eritrea also wear their hair like this. Since I am of Eritrean origin, I grew up wearing my hair in different braided styles, including these particular cornrows. Hair plays an important role in many African cultures and is not just something “mundane”, because it can symbolize various things and inform about origin, religion or marital status for instance. Therefore, it can be very frustrating for black people that their hair doesn't get the appreciation it deserves and is used as an accessory by non-black people.

Western media often feels the need to whitewash black culture by not giving credit where it is due or even credit the absolute wrong person just to make something fashionable. Yes, Bo Derek did look good with that style, but praising her for something that originates from West and East African tribes, and that black women to this day get mocked and shamed for, is not okay. A lot of black hairstyles are still rejected, for example when it comes to applying for a job. Many people still consider them as ghetto or not beautiful. But if a famous white woman like Bo Derek wears the same hairstyle, it suddenly becomes trendy, edgy or modern. And that is simply wrong. Black culture, or any culture, is not just a craze, never will be and never should be. It is reality and part of our identity. However, people treat it like a craze without thinking about the problems and discrimination black women have to encounter when embracing their culture. Black culture and black people are often used for commercialization as a temporary trend, because certain things are “in” fashion. However, our skin colors and our cultures are not accessories and certainly not just trends that could be “out” again at some point.

Fula woman braiding the hair of a young Fula man

Beautiful girl wearing Fulani Braids

Of course, cultural appropriation does not only happen to black cultures. Any minoritie’s culture often becomes the victim of white supremacy. Another big target are various Native American cultures. Sacred indigenous symbols and artifacts are often used as costumes or adapted into fashion in a very disrespectful way. For years, the 31st of October (millennials favourite holiday) has been a show stage for cultural appropriation. On Halloween, or in Germany primarily on “Fasching”, many resort to offensive clothing based on stereotypes that mock different cultures. Some dress up as their false interpretation of a native american, others use a stereotypical representation of a Mexican, a black person or a terrorist. This still happens. It becomes even more problematic when people start to sexualize these customs and devalue culturally and spiritually important symbols or people. “Pocahottie” is not an acceptable costume.

"Pocahottie" costume

The fashion world obviously is a huge stage when it comes to appropriating other cultures and even sexualizing those as well. And I mean that in a literal sense. Remember the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show (R.I.P) from 2012? When supermodel Karlie Kloss wore an indigenous headdress paired with sexy, seductive lingerie? And that was not the first, nor the last time VS was accused of cultural appropriation. They repeated the same mistakes over and over again. Cultures are not costumes that people can use as opportunities to turn a person’s identity into a stereotyped image. The ones who had fun being black, native americans or “arab terrorists” for the evening, can go home at the end of the day, take their costumes off and return to being a privileged white person again, whereas we cannot do that. We deal with the discrimination of our ethnic identities on a daily basis. Thus, it is very disrespectful and racist to use our cultures merely for one's own entertainment. The problem is that many white people would adopt anything from other cultures except for the discrimination that comes along with being a person of color. As long as people of color are still discriminated against, dominant cultures cannot take advantage of marginalized ethnic groups without also fighting for their rights and equality.

Supermodel Karlie Kloss in the 2012 VS fashion show

But, does that mean no white person can rock Fulani Braids or wear a dress inspired by the arts and cultures of an indigenous tribe? No, of course it does not mean that. Throughout history nearly every culture has borrowed from or blended with another culture. Everything else would be inevitable. It is in our nature to be curious, to want to explore and that is completely legitimate. Admiring and wanting to take part in other cultures is not only okay, it is beautiful and can bring us closer together if done right. The issue is not that people wear their hair in a certain style, the problem is the misrepresentation and commodification of other cultures. A group that is more powerful in society should not profit from another culture while the group being appropriated cannot represent their own culture and benefit to the same degree.

So, now that we understand the issue of cultural appropriation, we need to find ways of avoiding it, without stopping to embrace different cultures. This can be achieved with Cultural Appreciation and inspiration. As we learned, cultural appropriation demeans and dishonors cultures of marginalized groups, whereas appreciation centers around listening, exploring and learning about those cultures to understand them better. There are ways to connect with others cross-culturally without taking advantage of their cultures and appropriating those. First of all, it is important to know the culture you are dealing with. That doesn’t mean you need to have a bachelor degree in cultural studies, but you have to understand the meaning and significance behind the specific object, tradition, attire or symbol you are using. Moreover, you should ask yourself if you are honoring the culture with your act or if you are just imitating it for attention, likes or commercial reasons. If you realize the latter is the case, you should not do what you’ve planned. Talk to people, so you are able to use certain things of their culture in the right way and in the right context. Never misrepresent cultures by crediting the wrong people or using stereotypes. But sometimes, only giving credit is not enough. Of course, it is a step into the right direction, however to involve the culture's people in the conversation is even more significant. This step is often overlooked, especially in regard to the fashion industry, causing the fine line between appreciation and appropriation being crossed. In 2018, famous Italian fashion house Gucci incorporated a piece named “Indy Full Turban”, which was “inspired” by Sikh culture, into their Fall/Winter Collection. However, they did not even include Sikh people in their runway show, nor in the conversation. Otherwise they would have known that placing a sacred religious symbol on a white model's head, just as a simple accessory, is very wrong.

Gucci's "Indy Full Turban"

Infographical guide to avoid cultural appropriation by Greenheart

But don’t worry. There are brands and people who do get it right. Even before the Gucci debacle(s) and the Kardashian fiasco(s), smaller brands have already made progress. In 2015 Brazilian sportswear brand Osklen presented a collection inspired by the Asháninka tribe. The Asháninka people are an indigenous ethnic group who live in eastern Peru and in the area around the river Juruá, which is located in the Brazilian state Acre. Fashion designer, creative director and founder of the label Oskar Metsavaht and his team did not only visit the people of the tribe, lived with them and participated in their cultural rituals, they also paid them in return for permission to use their tattoos and fabrics. Thanks to that money, the people were able to improve their home, by building a new school for instance. The designer is also very vocal when it comes to speaking about problems the Asháninka people have to fight. This is a perfect example of how to do cultural exchange correctly. Gucci, the Kardashians and Co. can definitely learn something from Osklen.

A girl from the Asháninka tribe (left) that inspired this look from Osklen's collection (right)

Another example of a very graceful and admirable act of cultural appreciation is New Zealand's prime minister, Jacinda Ardern, wearing a hijab after the horrible terrorist attack in Christchurch to show solidarity and empathy for muslim people.

Differentiating appropriation from appreciation is not always easy. The topic has a lot of grey areas and complexities which often depend on subjective feelings and views. Just because one person does not perceive a certain act as appropriation, does not mean others feel the same way. Important to understand though is that someone who is part of a privileged ethnic group in society should not be in the position of deciding if something is offensive towards a minority or not. Just like men should not have the major voice when it comes to female problems, white people cannot belittle the feelings of POC.

Eventually, you get an answer to the question, if the concept of cultural appropriation can be seen as the antonym of diversity or multiculturalism. Cultural appropriation does not necessarily have to be on the opposite side of multiculturalism. Understanding the issue motivates and encourages people to be more sensitive and less offensive. However, if the accusations are exaggerated or inflated, it quickly can turn into something counterproductive. That is why we always should communicate with each other. Non-POC need to listen and understand our cultures better to be able to participate in a respectful way. At the same time, people of color should not judge at first glance without knowing the background of a certain picture or collection. I do feel like the term is thrown out too easily sometimes without people reflecting on if something really is appropriation. Not every white girl who likes to wear cornrows is appropriating our culture. Many people get offended very quickly, which is understandable, but also can cause us to forget what really is important in the process of fighting for equal rights. At the end of the day, we all follow the same goal of becoming an antiracist, diverse and inclusive society, don't we?